Education, Makeup How To

A Makeup Artist’s Kit: Correctors and Concealers

Now that we have covered what a makeup artist’s kit should contain (see: https://mymiamimua.com/2014/04/07/a-makeup-artists-kit/) and covered the all the bases for skincare (see: https://mymiamimua.com/2014/04/14/everything-skincare-perfect-skin/) , we will move on to the second part of a makeup artist’s kit: Correctors and Concealers.

Color Theory

To understand how correctors work, it is important to understand how colors work. Below, you will find an image of the color wheel. Artists use the color wheel to understand not only where colors stand in the spectrum, but also which colors cancel each other out. In this case, the color directly across cancels and neutralizes the other color (ex. red with green).

Color wheel image for lulumakeupart.com
Color Wheel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Primary Colors

The primary colors are yellow, red and blue. These colors are pure and cannot be obtained by combining other colors.

Secondary Colors

Secondary Colors are derived by mixing two primary colors. They are orange, green and purple. Maximum contrast is created when a primary color is combined on the face with its opposite secondary colors.

Intermediate (Tertiary) Colors

Mix a primary color with a secondary color to obtain intermediate colors such as turquoise and indigo (blue-violet).

Color Families

The rainbow can be divided into two broad categories of colors: cool and warm. Cool and warm hues can be combined to yield neutral shades.

Cool Colors

Cool colors are dominated by blue. They include blues, blue-greens, greens, grays, violets, purples and mauves. People whose skin tones are cool tend to have green, blue or gray eyes, fair skin, and ash blonde or white hair. Cool colors are associated with the ocean and are soothing. These colors are associated with winter.

Warm Colors

Warm colors are dominated by yellow. They include browns, beiges, light greens, oranges, yellows, reds and golds. People with warm skin tones more often have brown eyes and brown, black, red or gold hair. Warm colors are linked to the sun and are associated with summer. Just be sure to avoid using warm colors on a person with irritated skin.

Neutral Shades

Blacks and white are neutral shades. They be used with either of the two color families. White augments while black diminishes.

Concealers and Correctors

If you’re still following along and understand color theory, it is time to move on to correctors and concealers. What is the difference? Correctors brighten while concealers lighten and lift. The first thing to keep in mind is that under-eye concealer and correctors are NOT meant for face corrections because of their brightening qualities. So, if you try to mask a blemish with under eye concealer, you are going to make it stand out instead! Finally, not everyone needs correctors while others may not need concealers. Concealers should be one or two shades lighter than the skin.

Concealer & Corrector image for lulumakeupart.com
Concealer & Corrector by bhCosmetics

Yellow

Light yellow-toned concealers neutralize red and blue discolorations and brightens the skin. This is ideal for those who need little coverage. However, when a regular concealer cannot fully cover darkness in the under-eye area, then it calls for a pink or peach corrector.

Pink

Pink tones neutralize dark under-eye areas for those with fair to light skin tones. Pink neutralizes blue tones as well as some light purple tones. It should be applied from the inner corner of the eye and underneath the eye, followed by a light yellow concealer and set in with a soft powder if the area is not dry.

Peach

Peach or dark peach are most commonly used to neutralize greens and purples for women with warmer skin tones. It should also be applied from the inner corner of the eye and underneath the eye. For women who have deep under-eye darkness, a corrector is usually enough. If the under-eye area is not too dark, then some may need a yellow-toned concealer to neutralize the shade and look natural.

Spot and Face Correctors

Spot correctors are not meant to lighten areas of the face and come in pink, peach and green and therefore can be used for general all over face and body purposes. Green will directly neutralize redness. The best thing to do is to follow up any spot correctors with a foundation so that it looks natural.

Special Considerations

Cake- It’s important when layering colors on the face to make sure that the skin is properly hydrated and not overly saturated. If the face is dry and you use thick creams, the result will appear cakey. Check out the skincare guide for appropriate care before makeup.

Creasing- Not allowing moisturizer to dry or oily skin can sometimes cause creasing in creamy products. To avoid this, allow cream to dry and apply a light powder over the concealer/corrector to set.

Check back next week or subscribe to my blog for A Makeup Artist’s Kit: Foundation Guide for how to choose and use the right foundation colors and types.

 

References:

Morris, Rae  (2008). “Makeup: The Ultimate Guide” ISBN-10: 1741752264

Brown, Bobbi (2008). “Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual” ISBN: 9780446581349

Recommended Reading:

http://astore.amazon.com/lulu0d3-20?_encoding=UTF8&node=13

 

 

 

6 thoughts on “A Makeup Artist’s Kit: Correctors and Concealers”

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s