Correctors and concealers that brighten and lift are great products to apply underneath foundation for highlighting purposes (https://mymiamimua.com/2014/04/21/a-makeup-artists-kit-correctors-and-concealers/). However, highlighting can be done with many different products such as powders or shimmers. Basically, anything a shade or two lighter than the skin tone can be used to highlight the area. Highlighters are used to make something look larger, prominent, brighter, and bring a feature forward from a sunken area.
Contouring can be done by using a darker shade and applying it to create depth or to de-emphasize. Darker foundations, bronzers or powders can be used to contour and must be matte. Darker eye shadows can be used on the eyes to create depth in areas of the eyes.
Working with Different Face Shapes
The first thing to keep in mind when doing any shading or highlighting is that the “ideal” face shape is oval. Other reasons for highlighting and shading areas of the face depend on whether you want to emphasize or sink in areas of the face.
Types of Faces
- Long oval
Oval Shaped Face
The oval shaped face does not require much correction. Analyze the rest of the face and see if there are areas to be emphasized and other areas to create depth. Highlighting is usually done at the T-Zone: forehead, center of nose and chin. Darker products are normally used on the cheekbones and temples.
Heart Shaped Face
Heart shaped faces are wide at the forehead and come to a point at the chin. A general characteristic is an accented cheekbone and pointed chin.
- Apply a light-tone color along the jaw line and cheekbones.
- Apply a darker color starting from the outer part of the eye towards the temple.
- Rouge must be applied starting from the top of the cheekbones and sweeping downwards.
- Apply darker makeup at the hairline in the forehead area and at the tip of the chin.
Round Shaped Face
Round shaped faces need corrections to create volume and shapes.
- Brush a dark shade starting at the base of the ear diagonally from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. This will light up the upper part of the cheekbones and chin to create volume and depth.
- Darken the jaw and the temples.
- Do not make round-shaped shadows at the eyes.
- Eyebrow shape must be lightly pointed, avoiding a curved shaped.
- Avoid a hairstyle with volume at the laterals.
Square Shaped Face
The proportions of a square shaped face are the same in the upper zone as it is in the lower zone. In other words, the same width applies to the forehead and jaw.
- Apply darker shades to the chin.
- Apply depth to the extreme end of the sides of the face.
- To smooth angular lines of the face, eye shadows should be rounded.
Oblong Shaped Face
If the shape of the face is oval but it is lengthened, then it is a long oval shaped face. This type of face is characterized by its long form and narrowness. Apply makeup in horizontal strokes wherever possible.
- In the cheekbones, accentuate the roundness towards the tear duct.
- Apply the makeup and in a natural fashion without making corrections.
- Sweep rouge from the center of the cheekbone towards the temples.
- If the oval is too long, apply a darker tone of makeup in the upper and lower parts.
- With a long oval face shape, avoid an extremely long hair style and a one-side parting.
- Try a hairstyle that wears volume at laterals.
Diamond Shaped Face
A diamond shaped face is notable for its angular shapes, prominent jawline, chin and cheekbones. A characteristic feature of a diamond face shape is that the chin is really straight or lightly pointed.
- Apply a light-toned color in temples and cheekbones.
- The blush must be of a dark color, avoiding light ones since they will further highlight the cheekbones.
- Eyebrows should lean towards a round shape.
- Direct a lock of hair to the jawline when choosing a hairstyle.