Education, Makeup How To

Television & Photography Makeup Guideline

orangeshadowPreparing the Foundation

As with any other type of makeup, it is necessary to prepare the skin before applying any products. For television and photography, skin must be hydrated and taken care of so the makeup looks its absolute best.

I recommend using a stick/cream foundation for television and photography and avoid water based or luminous foundations that can cause the lighting to deflect poorly off the skin creating some not so great outcomes for camera. It is a great idea to keep in mind what type of lighting will be used. Also, the thicker the product, the more coverage it will give.

In makeup for photography, liquid foundation can be used so that it looks natural and light.

Dust the whole face with loose powder to ward off shine.

Corrections to the face can be made with pencil or with powdered shadows, leaving these well blended but defined.

Color Application

The makeup artist must know how to apply makeup according to the type of program in which he or she is working. If the makeup is for journalism, the colors should be conservative and matte, making sure that they do not clash with the wardrobe. Any shading around the eyes must be smudged, making sure that the eye is both defined and clear.

However, if the shooting takes place at night, the makeup must be a bit more intense and the artist can apply bolder colors. Still, the foundation should always stay matte.

For photography makeup, the makeup is limitless, since we can make soft eyes for a natural look or pronounced shadows for a sophisticated image. For these assignments, the artist studies the photographer’s portfolio and style, the client’s wardrobe, and so on.

In both television and photography, false lashes are important because they thicken and extend the natural lashes and give the eye more of a “pop.”

The eyeliner should always be a shade or two darker than the eye color.

The brows in the case of television should look natural but intensified a bit for photography.

In the case of television, more blush is best! What can appear like a lot in real life looks very different on camera and can make a person look pale. However, this does not mean to make the person look completely unnatural. Take a couple of shots with the camera to see if blush needs to be intensified or more subtle. In any case, blush must emphasize the cheekbones.

The lips must be lined well, and it’s important they look symmetrical. In photos and television, asymmetries are more noticeable.

In all cases, the makeup must be appropriate to the visual medium, being aware of the studio lighting. Always confirm the type of makeup to be done with all concerned on the set, so as to be able to apply this to the makeup.

For more info on television and photography and lighting, see: https://mymiamimua.com/2014/06/30/makeup-for-television-and-photography/

Check back next week for Special Effects for Film & Stage!

Education

Makeup for Television and Photography

smokey eye by little lulu makeup artistry in miamiCommunication is extremely important in deciding the style of the the finish which your makeup must cater to.

In this post we will discuss:

  • The role of the makeup artist in the studio
  • Television scripts and the makeup artist
  • Staying Consistent
  • The role of the assistant makeup artist
  • Studio lighting and its effect on makeup
  • Television terms and vocabulary
  • Special products for television and photography

The Role of the Makeup Artist

The professionals who influence how the actors and actresses appear on camera include: the producer, director, script writer, makeup artist, wardrobe and hair stylist, and lighting crew. The main role of the makeup artist is to counteract the shine and reflective effects that bright lights produce when coming in contact with a person’s skin. Studio lights also tend to wash out the complexions of people being filmed and it’s up to the makeup artist to make sure actors don’t appear ghost-like on camera.

When a specific character or time period is being recreated, the makeup artist is called upon to recreate an authentic and convincing image  for the camera. Special-effects makeup, such as wounds and scars is another specialty of the makeup artist that works for television.

In television, the makeup artist has the advantage of seeing the result of their work immediately whether he or she is on the set or in front of monitors in the control room. Generally, televisions shows are taped, necessitating simple touch-ups between takes. The makeup artist must be attentive to the director’s order and never in a place that can interfere with other members of the crew. It is important to keep your equipment clean and your materials well organized. Always look professional and well-groomed.

Television Scripts and the Makeup Artist

The script for a television episode is what governs the entire production. All the audiovisual details are contained within the document. While in film, the makeup artist must become acquainted with only a single type of script. However, in television, there are many formats and styles to match the different genres of TV programs which the makeup artist must also become acquainted with. Some television programs are make with no script at all- news programs, where field journalists report live on location, is an example. Afterward, through newsroom editing, the team establishes a script.

Soap operas are unique in that there is often a master document from which the serial scripts are drawn. The master document contains details such as descriptions of the characters, professions, personalities and styles, history and so on.

In daily talk shows, each script changes daily. Other models of television scripts are:

Short news segments

The topic of a short taped news segment will be a single theme or event, whether a press conference or the naming of a new head of state. These segments are meant to be informative and objective.

Featured news segments 

On TV programs like 60 Minutes, there might be several 10-15 minute segments. The script for these segments will be more extensive and contain footage destined for voice-over. There is usually a clear, established structure, although last minute changes are common and require the makeup artist to adapt quickly.

Interview scripts

These documents describe the people involved (i.e. moderator, speaker, interviewees), the order in which they speak, the topics and so on.

Reality shows and game shows

The circumstances of reality shows are different and the crew members should always be prepared for the unusual. In reality shows such as Survivor, a team of script writers stay nearby and document the daily routines of the competitors. They then incorporate and further develop the spontaneous story lines when they write their scripts.

Staying Consistent 

For every recurring character in any type of television program, it’s critical that consistency be kept between what the actor wore and how he or she was made up from one episode or shot to the next. If special effects are used, there will need to be an account of where a particular wound was located, for example, and for how long according to the script, the wound shall appear. This attention to detail ensures a realistic consistency within the television program. A wound that miraculously disappears by the next episode of a soap opera, for example, will be noticed by astute viewers.

The Role of the Assistant Makeup Artist

The assistant will be responsible for assisting with the needs of either the main makeup artist, or artists or the actor (or journalist, etc.) being made up. Specific duties vary.

Studio Lighting and its Effect on Makeup

Lighting color

Many different colors of light are used on television sets to create an atmosphere and evoke certain emotions in the viewers.

Orange light will result in a warm, relaxed, intimate environment. Orange light smooths facial features.

Pink light is used to create an effect of flashback or dream sequence. Pink light attenuates lines, folds and creases.

Red light is used to deliver a sense of a variety of environments and settings, such as a cafe or theater. Under red light, makeup practically disappears because red light is stronger than any other color.

Blue light creates an atmosphere of fear and suspense. It is also used for a moonlight effect in night shoots. The effect that it produces in makeup is shadow. It gives clarity, clears up the skin, and improves under-eye circles. Natural variations in skin tone become more visible.

White light has a similar effect to blue light, but makes contrasts even more noticeable.

Film speed

The speed of the film is a measure of its sensitivity to light. The speed/sensitivity influences how makeup appears on film. Speed is denoted by ISOs, named for the International Organization of Standardization.

Films of low sensitivity (12-80 ISOs) are among the more challenging for the makeup artist to work with as they register all kind of details. Untreated pores and fine lines will be evident, putting the responsibility of a perfect finish on the artist. Low-sensitivity films also result in high contrast.

Films of moderate sensitivity (100-200 ISOs) are used more often and produce a lifelike, realistic image.

Films of high sensitivity (400-3200 ISOs) are easy for the makeup artist to work with. They reveal very little detail and disguise most imperfections These films are used for artistic expression and produce images with a grainy, vintage look. As for the makeup, you must amplify it.

Intensity and quality of light

The illumination can be more or less intense, hard or soft, cold or warm. These terms relate to the quantity, contrast, and hue of light.

Direction of illumination

Frontal lighting is becoming less used because it leaves the face totally flat. It has the advantage of smoothing out wrinkles. Makeup should enhance the curvatures of the face with technical shading.

Back lighting produces the opposite effect of frontal lighting. Light aimed from behind the person obscures the face and only shows the silhouette. As in the previous example, the ambient light serves to smooth, and according to the intensity of light, the face will remain in greater or smaller degrees of semi-darkness. the makeup will vary according to the type of back lighting:

  1. Absolute back lighting: the face is not seen.
  2. Back lighting smoothed by ambient or ambient light of low intesnity: the makeup must be in a satin or luminous finish.
  3. Back lighting smoothed by ambient or ambient light of high intesnity: this light increases the intensity that influences the face, clarifying the tones.

Top lighting is cast on the individual from above, as daylight would be. The illuminated zones correspond to the higher and prominent parts of the face which already receive more light. These facial features will project shadows on less illuminated zones. The makeup artist will highlight the face to correct the distortion that is caused, compensating and balancing the zones of light and shadow.

Under lighting is located at a point below the individual. The more illuminated zones will be those of the lower parts of the face, which will receive greater intensity. The shadows are projected upward, producing a spooky effect.

Side lighting illuminates only one side of the person. In makeup, you must keep in mind the intensity of the light for color selection and textures.

Television Terms and Vocabulary

Aerial or crane shot: The camera offers a perspective of the scene from a certain altitude. This is usually done by elevating the camera with an aircraft or large crane. This is not to be confused with the overhead shot, since aerial can be shot overhead or not.

Overhead shot: The shot in which the camera is placed, by means of a crane or other technical system, directly above the action.

Cut-away shot: These shots are intended to be filler for video or film. For example: if an interview is being taped, shots might be taken of objects on the table, the screen of the interviewee’s computer, etc., to be incorporated with the actual interview during editing.

Datum shot: The shots that offer the viewer a reference that permits one to orient oneself in relation to the action being shown.

Subject shot/ Point of view: A shot that allows us to see the action through the eyes of the character. The point of view or POV shot.

Special Products for Television and Photography

Foundation

Pancake foundation works with a damp sponge and gives full coverage.

Pan-stick makeup covers with a creamy texture.

Liquid foundation contains oils unless labeled oil-free. Liquid foundations are ideal for heavier coverage or/or combination skin. the makeup artist should carry several shades from fair to warm.

Cream foundations provide full coverage and can function as concealers.

We can use makeup foundation to correct imperfections in skin that will be photographed:

  • To correct face shape, use darker foundations, being sure to blend well into the skin.
  • To correct red zones, use green or yellow-tinted concealers or cream foundations.
  • To correct dark spots or under eye darkness, use orange-tined concealer or cream foundations.
  • For sallow skin, use orange, yellow or translucent foundations.

Powders

Orange powders give luminosity and good tone.

Translucent powders clarify. They have no color, but can look ashy on warmer skin tones.

Yellow powders even red tones and brighten the skin’s complexion.

Now that we understand many things about photography and television, make sure to check back next week for a general guideline on how to create makeup for photography! Subscribe to my blog for e-mail updates.

Education, Makeup How To, Uncategorized

Basic Makeup Steps in Full Detail

Basic Makeup Application by Little Lulu
Basic Makeup Application by Little Lulu

Review: Steps in Makeup

  1. Prepare the Skin for makeup.
  2. Concealer
  3. Foundation
  4. Bronzer
  5. Set Makeup with Powder
  6. Cheeks
  7. Lips
  8. Eyebrows
  9. Eyes
  10. Highlight

 

Thorough Details of a Full-Face Basic Makeup Application

Preparing the Skin for Makeup

  1. The purpose of preparing the skin for makeup is so that the skin looks its absolute best, is protected, and so that the makeup looks flawless.
  2. HYGIENE is important when beginning any makeup application. Make sure you have hand sanitizer on you or that you wash your hands before touching your client’s skin. Brushes should be clean and makeup products should be disinfected before the appointment. I like to carry hand sanitizer on me during the makeup application and use it in front of my client so that she feels comfortable if my hands come in contact with her skin.
  3. CLEANSE the face with a makeup wipe. For sensitive/dry skin, use a cream-based makeup remover such as Bobbi Brown’s hydrating cream cleanser. Cleanse the face with a sponge whenever possible. Use a gentle wet cloth if necessary to remove cleanser thoroughly.
  4. HYDRATE. Even if your client has oily/combination skin, it is important for the skin to look hydrated and to glow. Think of it as a fresh drink of water for the face. Some of our clients tend to overly dry their faces with astringents,  and when the foundation comes on, it starts to flake or look cakey. Alternatively, make sure the cream is not too heavy for their face type or the makeup will slip right off and/or will not last as long. If the client’s skin is mature skin or very dry, consider using a hydrating serum underneath the moisturizer. Hydrate under the eyes, patting the eye cream with either your finger or a brush. **It is important to take the client’s hygienic considerations when touching their skin, so if they are uncomfortable with your hands touching their faces, use a brush to apply creams.**
  5. SPF. If your face cream does not have an SPF or your client will be outdoors for his/her event, it is important that the client wears a lightweight SPF for protection from the sun.
  6. PRIME. If your face cream does not already have a built-in primer, use a primer on the client’s skin. A primer has several benefits: Pores will appear smaller, it will protect the face from heavy makeup entering the pores, acts like a shield to protect against environmental factors such as pollutants, etc. **Some primers have SPF, such as Laura Mercier’s Primer. Primers can also be hydrating, illuminating, or mattifying. Consider the type of illusion you would like to create and the client’s skin prior to choosing a primer.**
  7. For On-The-Go or Every Day makeup, you can find 3-in-1 solutions to hydrate, protect, and prime. Some great options are: Bobbi Brown’s Protective Face Lotion, Laura Mercier Primer with SPF, Smashbox Hydrating Primer.
  8. For detailed information on Skincare, check out the Skincare Guide for Perfect Skin.

Concealer

  1. The reason to begin with concealer before foundation is because when we are tired, need an instant uplifting look to our face, it begins to show underneath the eyes. Additionally, first signs of aging occur underneath the eye. For this reason, when we apply foundation first, we overcompensate how much foundation is actually needed causing us to use too much product on the face.
  2. The best way to apply concealer is with a brush, so that if you need to layer product, you may do so with a brush (whereas, your fingertip will spread it).
  3. First consider and analyze the hues you have under the eyes and refer back to Correctors and Concealers. Will you need to correct the color first and then apply a concealer? Do you only need some concealer? If you need corrections, apply a light peach or pink correction with a brush. Make sure you get the inner corners of the eye where darkness hides!
  4. Layer on concealer on top of the correction with a brush. Blend and seal by tapping the corners and sides of concealer with your finger gently as to not rub off.
  5. For brightening under the eyes, you can use an eye brightener which acts much like a corrector. Think, YSL’s Touche Eclat. You can also apply it a bit under the eye and under foundation by creating an inverted triangle which gives a nice illusion later.
  6. For dark spots on the face, use a peach-toned corrector that does not brighten under the foundation.
  7. When re-touching through-out the day, dab on a bit of concealer to experience an instant refresh.

Foundation

  1. Foundation should match your face perfectly. That’s right, your FACE, and NOT your neck. Sometimes our neck is darker than our face. If you put a foundation a shade warmer than your actual skin tone, then it will most likely turn orange (this is called oxidation). Therefore, if you need your face to match your neck, use a bronzer, but more about that later. Foundation should match so well that it could be used on certain areas of the face to neutralize redness and not need to put it all over the face if not necessary.
  2. Consider whether your client has pink tones or is more olive-toned. This will let you know if you need a “warmer” tone. I personally do not believe in pink foundations because, referring back to color theory, how will you cancel the redness on the face? I tend to go for more yellow tones to neutralize the face of my clients, and then add warmth back gradually.
  3. Consider the skin type for foundation. Dry skin: Creamy foundations, oil-based foundations, hydrating foundations, water-based foundations. Normal/Combination: Creamy foundations, oil-free foundation. Oily skin: Oil-free foundations. Powder foundations.
  4. Consider the coverage needed. Foundations range from full coverage (such as creamy foundations) to sheer (water-based foundations). For example, if your client only has a bit of redness and normal skin, consider using a light-weight water-based foundation. Even a tinted moisturizer could do the trick!
  5. Apply foundation with a brush for precision as the oil of the hands tend to blend and spread foundation while a sponge absorbs the foundation and gives no coverage (don’t waste your makeup product- invest in a foundation brush!

Bronzer

  1. Bronzer can be used to warm the face and neck, to give a healthy glow, and to add darkening corrections/contour the face.
  2. When choosing a bronzer, consider if the client naturally tans cinnamon or golden by holding the two shades of bronzers to the chest of the person. If the person tans more cinnamon, use a cinnamon bronzer or else it will look orange and vice versa. Some people are more neutral, so you can find a neutral tone bronzer or use either or cinnamon/golden.
  3. If contouring, follow the Best Makeup Application for Face Shapes guide.
  4. For a natural bronze glow, start with the neck and apply some bronzer under the cheekbones, to the forehead, the chin and don’t forget the nose.
  5. Bronzer is not a good idea for those who have scars, marks or dark spots on the face. Use a warmer sheer powder all over the face instead.

Powder

  1. Powder sets all makeup. Apply it loosely with a brush for no to sheer coverage, or with a sponge for sheer to medium coverage.
  2. You can use a translucent/universal powder if you are fair/light, but stray from them if your skin is warmer/olive because it can appear ashy. You can use a sheer coverage powder, oil-control powder, or hydrating powder which locks moisture into the face but keeps shine out.
  3. Foundation powder is nice for oily/combination skin, but if you are to use this, use it before bronzer or other makeup. Do not overdo the powder with dry skin.
  4. Sheer yellow powders cancel redness. Peach ones cancel dark spots on the face.

Cheeks

  1. Wait, cheeks first and not the eyes? That’s right! Think of it this way, your client is running late or she gets an emergency phone call and she needs to jump out of your chair and go, she would still look decent. If you began with her eyes, it won’t look so great! Also, some clients do not like a lot of makeup so it is always easier to add on more or less as she feels comfortable rather than removing it.
  2. Consider the client’s skin situation, the eye makeup she would like, and if you applied bronzer.
  3. If the client’s skin is reddish already and she does not like that, use a blue-toned blush or a peach-tone blush to warm the face.
  4. A natural blush should only be applied to those customers that are not wearing bronzer or the face will appear dirty rather than natural.
  5. A POP of color right on the cheekbones should not over-do it if your client is wearing bronzer as it will simply accentuate the cheeks.
  6. Bright colors work if the client wants her face makeup to accentuate the cheeks and lips, but the eye makeup stays neutral.
  7. A soft blush is best if the eye makeup is dramatic. Unless you’re a drag queen, then do all the steps dramatically (especially contouring).

Lips

  1. A makeup artist MUST contain two important lip liner colors in their makeup kits: Natural and Red.
  2. A lip liner will help the lip color last longer.
  3. You cannot do a red lip without red lip liner.
  4. You can simply use a natural lip liner, spread it all over the lips, and use gloss over it for a color that will last all night.
  5. A natural lip color does not always have to be matched with a lip liner, but it looks oh so much more professional, precise, and cleaner when you do.
  6. When doing a natural or soft color lip, apply the color first and then apply a natural lip liner. It looks more natural.
  7. When doing a bright color such as red, bright raspberry or bright orange (or any other color that is bright and you’re feeling creative), use a lip liner first. The best tip is to go from the corner of the lip to the center, even on the upper lip to avoid that awkward “cupids bow” lip moment. Smudge the color into the center of the lip softly, then apply the bright lip color, stain, etc.
  8. I do not personally apply gloss over bright colors, as it already stands out enough.
  9. Again, consider the eye makeup. Why the dramatic eyes and red lips? WHY? Choose one, or you’ll be nicknamed Bozo the Clown and your friends will not let you live it down.

Eyebrows

  1. Outline the shape of the brow with a brow pencil the shade of your hair in soft wispy strokes. Use a stencil if needed.
  2. Use an angled brush to apply powder and fill the holes.
  3. If the eyebrows are brunette or full, so they do not look too pronounced, fill in the brows with a powder a shade softer than the pencil.
  4. Blend by combing the brows with a brow brush.
  5. Apply concealer right around the edges to soften the brow color with a concealer brush.
  6. Use a brow gel to hold brows in place.

Eyes

  1. If you will be using dark colors, layer powder underneath the eyes so you can just wisp out fallout later. Or use cream shadows so you do not have to worry about fallout.
  2. The easiest and most universal way to create a makeup look is to begin by applying a light color all over the lid from under your brow bone and down. This shade should be a shade or two lighter than your skin tone. Stay away from metallics, shimmers or bright white (unless you’re very fair, OR a drag queen). The only acceptable tone for a light glaze under the brow bone is beige.
  3. Choose a middle color. Press the colors on with an eyeshadow brush. Yes, press. DO NOT RUB or it won’t look like the color. So, press the shadow onto the eyelid and THEN rub back and forth to blend, bringing it up above the crease but leaving space for the lighter color under the brow bone. Do it several times to achieve the color intensity you want.
  4. Choose a darker color. PRESS the darker color onto the direct eyelid. You can use a blending brush between the two different colors on the line that separates them, so they can blend naturally.
  5. Line the eyes. For a more natural look, you can wet an eyeliner brush and dip it into a dark eye shadow. I like to start with a thin line inside the eye and then make it a bit thicker towards the ends.
  6. You can also use a gel liner! These are amazing, have great pigment and apply smoothly.
  7. If you want to smudge your eyeliner, use an eye pencil or kohl eyeliner, then with a brush, gently smudge the eyeliner.
  8. If you apply eyeliner under the eye, you MUST apply it above. But if you apply it above, you do not necessarily need to apply it under. Listen, or your client will look like her eyes are backwards.
  9. Finally, apply LOTS of mascara but make sure the brand you are using is clump-free. I love to exaggerate. Decide whether they need to be curled, if they need lengthening, etc. Apply the mascara accordingly. For a nice application, the outer lashes should extend outward, the middle lashes upward and the inside lashes inside.
  10. For creating eyes for your face shape, check out Best Makeup Application for Eyes.

Highlighting

  1. Apply highlighting to accentuate features in the face by using a light powder or shimmer/brightening powder.
  2. Highlighting is usually applied underneath the eyes, on the top of the cheeks, middle of forehead, center of nose and chin.
  3. Refresh your memory by checking the Best Makeup Application for Face Shapes guide.

Practice makes perfect. To request in-person lessons, use my contact page.

Education, Makeup How To

Contouring the Nose

Corrections can be applied to give the illusion of a differently shaped nose. Contouring and highlighting can therefore be used on the nose to sculpt it. There are many different types of noses and vary due to length, size, and shape. Here is a chart.

Contouring The Nose
Contouring The Nose

Types of Noses

  • Long
  • Short
  • Thick
  • Fine
  • Wide
  • Narrow
  • Twisted

Long Nose

  1. Use dark corrections on the tip and wings of the nose to make it straight.
  2. If the nose is thin, create an effect of wider width by applying a light color to the sides.
  3. A light-tone or neutral shade of lip color is recommended.

Short Nose

  1. Highlight the tip of the nose.
  2. Highlight the wings of the nose.

Thick Nose

  1. Shade the sides of the nose and the tip of the nose.
  2. Remove hair from the space between the eyebrows, making them separate further so the nose appears smaller.

Fine Nose

  1. Apply a shade or two lighter than the skin tone to the all over nose area.

Wide Nose

  1. Apply a darker color to the sides of the nose, contouring the sides of the nose.
  2. Highlight the center of the nose.

Narrow Nose

  1. Make up the laterals with a light-tone color to give the illusion of more width.

Twisted Nose

  1. Apply a dark color to the side of the deviation and a light color to the other side.
  2. Where hairstyle is concerned, a fringe that leans to the contrary direction of the deviation will help detract attention from that zone.

Remember that practice makes perfect. If you would like in-person makeup lessons, use my contact page.

Education, Makeup How To

Best Makeup Application for Eyes

Shading and highlighting is not limited to corrections on the face, but can be applied to the eyes as well. Here is a chart.

Eye Shapes and Makeup Application
Eye Shapes and Makeup Application

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Types of Eyes

  • Deep Set Eyes
  • Protruding Eyes
  • Close Set Eyes
  • Wide Set Eyes
  • Round Eyes
  • Down Turned Eyes
  • Small Eyes

Deep-Set Eyes

Suggested steps for correction of these types of eyes are:

  1. Use a light pencil on the inside rim of the eyes.
  2. Apply light, glazed shadow on the eyelid, slightly darkening the area above.
  3. Outline the outer extreme of the eye.

Protruding Eyes

Suggest steps for correction of these types of eyes are:

  1. Eyeliner must be dark and thick.
  2. Use a dark pencil on the inside of the eyes.
  3. Apply a dark, matte shade to the lid and light ones just below the brows.
  4. Use a lot of mascara on the eyelashes.
  5. Widen brows in proportion to the eye.

Close Set Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Sketch a line on the eyes with the dark shadow, starting halfway and extending until the outer corner.
  2. Use ivory on the inside rim of the eye and dark pencils on the outside.
  3. Use a lot of mascara on the upper and lower lashes.

Wide Set Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Use a dark shadow to draw a thicker line on the inside and thin out toward the outside.
  2. Use dark eye shadows on the inside, smudged outwards and light-tone shadows on the outside.
  3. Intensify the eyes with mascara focusing on the inner lashes closest the nose.

Round Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Make a line with dark shades on both the eye lid and along the lower lash line, making sure that the lines are slightly horizontal and long. Smudge the lines and then clarify with an eyeliner.
  2. Apply light-toned shadows under the eyebrows and dark ones from the tear ducts to the temple in a slanted angle.
  3. Intensify the eyes with mascara, focusing on the middle and outer lashes.

Down Turned Eyes

*It is important to avoid descending lines* Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  1. Make a thin line from the tear duct and slope the ending upwards creating a thicker line on the outer corners of the eyes. Do not go past the lid.
  2. Place light shadows on the inner corner of the eye and darker shadows on the outside.
  3. Apply a large quantity of mascara, extending the outer lashes.
  4. Give a point of luminosity on the eyebrow arch with a metallic or shimmer tone.

Small Eyes

Suggested steps for these types of eyes are:

  • Apply light shadows on the upper lid.
  • Create a slight dark shading over the eye fold.
  • Line the eye above and below.
  • Apply a lot of mascara on both the upper and lower lashes.

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

The use of glasses should not be an impediment for makeup, but this should be adapted to different scenarios.

Short-Sighted Vision

The eyes appear smaller than they really are, so it would be necessary to enlarge them with makeup.

Use light-toned colors under the brow bones and on the insides with dark tones from the middle of the eye and outward.

The eyeliner should be applied thin on the inner corner of the eye and become thicker toward the outside corners.

Long-Sighted Vision

In this case, the lens enlarges and deforms the eye.

Use dark shadows on the lid and smudged into the crease. Avoid shimmers and metallics on the eyes.

Line the eyes with a dark pencil and apply mascara softly.

Remember that practice makes perfect. For in-person makeup lessons, use the contact page.

Education, Makeup How To

Best Makeup Application for Face Shapes

Correctors and concealers that brighten and lift are great products to apply underneath foundation for highlighting purposes (https://mymiamimua.com/2014/04/21/a-makeup-artists-kit-correctors-and-concealers/). However, highlighting can be done with many different products such as powders or shimmers. Basically, anything a shade or two lighter than the skin tone can be used to highlight the area. Highlighters are used to make something look larger, prominent, brighter, and bring a feature forward from a sunken area.

Contouring can be done by using a darker shade and applying it to create depth or to de-emphasize. Darker foundations, bronzers or powders can be used to contour and must be matte. Darker eye shadows can be used on the eyes to create depth in areas of the eyes. 

Working with Different Face Shapes


Face Shapes



 

 

 

 

The first thing to keep in mind when doing any shading or highlighting is that the “ideal” face shape is oval. Other reasons for highlighting and shading areas of the face depend on whether you want to emphasize or sink in areas of the face.

Types of Faces

  • Heart
  • Oval
  • Round
  • Square
  • Long oval
  • Diamond

Oval Shaped Face

The oval shaped face does not require much correction. Analyze the rest of the face and see if there are areas to be emphasized and other areas to create depth. Highlighting is usually done at the T-Zone: forehead, center of nose and chin. Darker products are normally used on the cheekbones and temples.

oval-face-contouring2

Heart Shaped Face

Heart shaped faces are wide at the forehead and come to a point at the chin. A general characteristic is an accented cheekbone and pointed chin.

To correct:

  1. Apply a light-tone color along the jaw line and cheekbones.
  2. Apply a darker color starting from the outer part of the eye towards the temple.
  3. Rouge must be applied starting from the top of the cheekbones and sweeping downwards.
  4. Apply darker makeup at the hairline in the forehead area and at the tip of the chin.

heart-face-contouring2

Round Shaped Face

Round shaped faces need corrections to create volume and shapes.

To correct:

  1. Brush a dark shade starting at the base of the ear diagonally from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. This will light up the upper part of the cheekbones and chin to create volume and depth.
  2. Darken the jaw and the temples.
  3. Do not make round-shaped shadows at the eyes.
  4. Eyebrow shape must be lightly pointed, avoiding a curved shaped.
  5. Avoid a hairstyle with volume at the laterals.

round

Square Shaped Face

The proportions of a square shaped face are the same in the upper zone as it is in the lower zone. In other words, the same width applies to the forehead and jaw.

To correct:

  1. Apply darker shades to the chin.
  2. Apply depth to the extreme end of the sides of the face.
  3. To smooth angular lines of the face, eye shadows should be rounded.

square

Oblong Shaped Face

If the shape of the face is oval but it is lengthened, then it is a long oval shaped face. This type of face is characterized by its long form and narrowness. Apply makeup in horizontal strokes wherever possible.

To correct:

  1. In the cheekbones, accentuate the roundness towards the tear duct.
  2. Apply the makeup and in a natural fashion without making corrections.
  3. Sweep rouge from the center of the cheekbone towards the temples.
  4. If the oval is too long, apply a darker tone of makeup in the upper and lower parts.
  5. With a long oval face shape, avoid an extremely long hair style and a one-side parting.
  6. Try a hairstyle that wears volume at laterals.

oblong-face-contouring3

Diamond Shaped Face

A diamond shaped face is notable for its angular shapes, prominent jawline, chin and cheekbones. A characteristic feature of a diamond face shape is that the chin is really straight or lightly pointed.

To correct:

  1. Apply a light-toned color in temples and cheekbones.
  2. The blush must be of a dark color, avoiding light ones since they will further highlight the cheekbones.
  3. Eyebrows should lean towards a round shape.
  4. Direct a lock of hair to the jawline when choosing a hairstyle.

diamond-face-contouring2

 

 

 

 

Education, Makeup How To

A Makeup Artist’s Kit: Correctors and Concealers

Now that we have covered what a makeup artist’s kit should contain (see: https://mymiamimua.com/2014/04/07/a-makeup-artists-kit/) and covered the all the bases for skincare (see: https://mymiamimua.com/2014/04/14/everything-skincare-perfect-skin/) , we will move on to the second part of a makeup artist’s kit: Correctors and Concealers.

Color Theory

To understand how correctors work, it is important to understand how colors work. Below, you will find an image of the color wheel. Artists use the color wheel to understand not only where colors stand in the spectrum, but also which colors cancel each other out. In this case, the color directly across cancels and neutralizes the other color (ex. red with green).

Color wheel image for lulumakeupart.com
Color Wheel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Primary Colors

The primary colors are yellow, red and blue. These colors are pure and cannot be obtained by combining other colors.

Secondary Colors

Secondary Colors are derived by mixing two primary colors. They are orange, green and purple. Maximum contrast is created when a primary color is combined on the face with its opposite secondary colors.

Intermediate (Tertiary) Colors

Mix a primary color with a secondary color to obtain intermediate colors such as turquoise and indigo (blue-violet).

Color Families

The rainbow can be divided into two broad categories of colors: cool and warm. Cool and warm hues can be combined to yield neutral shades.

Cool Colors

Cool colors are dominated by blue. They include blues, blue-greens, greens, grays, violets, purples and mauves. People whose skin tones are cool tend to have green, blue or gray eyes, fair skin, and ash blonde or white hair. Cool colors are associated with the ocean and are soothing. These colors are associated with winter.

Warm Colors

Warm colors are dominated by yellow. They include browns, beiges, light greens, oranges, yellows, reds and golds. People with warm skin tones more often have brown eyes and brown, black, red or gold hair. Warm colors are linked to the sun and are associated with summer. Just be sure to avoid using warm colors on a person with irritated skin.

Neutral Shades

Blacks and white are neutral shades. They be used with either of the two color families. White augments while black diminishes.

Concealers and Correctors

If you’re still following along and understand color theory, it is time to move on to correctors and concealers. What is the difference? Correctors brighten while concealers lighten and lift. The first thing to keep in mind is that under-eye concealer and correctors are NOT meant for face corrections because of their brightening qualities. So, if you try to mask a blemish with under eye concealer, you are going to make it stand out instead! Finally, not everyone needs correctors while others may not need concealers. Concealers should be one or two shades lighter than the skin.

Concealer & Corrector image for lulumakeupart.com
Concealer & Corrector by bhCosmetics

Yellow

Light yellow-toned concealers neutralize red and blue discolorations and brightens the skin. This is ideal for those who need little coverage. However, when a regular concealer cannot fully cover darkness in the under-eye area, then it calls for a pink or peach corrector.

Pink

Pink tones neutralize dark under-eye areas for those with fair to light skin tones. Pink neutralizes blue tones as well as some light purple tones. It should be applied from the inner corner of the eye and underneath the eye, followed by a light yellow concealer and set in with a soft powder if the area is not dry.

Peach

Peach or dark peach are most commonly used to neutralize greens and purples for women with warmer skin tones. It should also be applied from the inner corner of the eye and underneath the eye. For women who have deep under-eye darkness, a corrector is usually enough. If the under-eye area is not too dark, then some may need a yellow-toned concealer to neutralize the shade and look natural.

Spot and Face Correctors

Spot correctors are not meant to lighten areas of the face and come in pink, peach and green and therefore can be used for general all over face and body purposes. Green will directly neutralize redness. The best thing to do is to follow up any spot correctors with a foundation so that it looks natural.

Special Considerations

Cake- It’s important when layering colors on the face to make sure that the skin is properly hydrated and not overly saturated. If the face is dry and you use thick creams, the result will appear cakey. Check out the skincare guide for appropriate care before makeup.

Creasing- Not allowing moisturizer to dry or oily skin can sometimes cause creasing in creamy products. To avoid this, allow cream to dry and apply a light powder over the concealer/corrector to set.

Check back next week or subscribe to my blog for A Makeup Artist’s Kit: Foundation Guide for how to choose and use the right foundation colors and types.

 

References:

Morris, Rae  (2008). “Makeup: The Ultimate Guide” ISBN-10: 1741752264

Brown, Bobbi (2008). “Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual” ISBN: 9780446581349

Recommended Reading:

http://astore.amazon.com/lulu0d3-20?_encoding=UTF8&node=13